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  • Clean power in NYC apartment - possible or red herring??

    Hello all,

    New joiner here - been reading for a while and it looked like at least a few of the regulars here are NYC residents, so here goes.

    I'm keen to get some friendly advise on cleaning up the power to my components. I live in Manhattan in an apartment building on the Upper East Side. It's close to impossible to carry out any electrical work anytime soon for me (like 20A dedicated lines for the components or replace outlets or some other structural fix). While I'm VERY pleased with the sound (especially after adding S1MkIIs - thanks to Bob @ Rhapsody) I'm getting at the moment, I'm curious if there's something "hidden" in there that I could unearth by addressing the power part of my setup.

    I've done the usual reading on the forums and mags trying to get a sense of where to start but most of the advise seems tailored to folks who already have dedicated lines running to their homes and to their listening rooms. In an apartment building scenario, I'm not really sure where to start. Is dirty power coming into the apartment the biggest issue, is the EMI/RFI coming for PC/Networking equipment plugged into other outlets in the house a bigger issue, is grounding good or bad for the building itself, might upgrading the power cords alleviate most of the upstream issues, etc. Is there a way (and is it worthwhile) to measure any of this to actually test where the problems might lie? Since I don't have unlimited funds (not to mention space), I can't simply acquire a full 'stack' of power components.

    So the advise I'm looking for is:
    1. where to start (line conditioner, distributor, EMI/RFI suppressor, power cords)
    2. what products have folks used here in NYC that have helped address one or more of these issues (brands/models)
    3. what's the order of priority to allocate funds

    Any and all practical advise on how to optimize my setup is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance
    Speakers: Magico S1MkII
    Amp: Vitus SS-011 w/Vol Control
    Digital: Lampizator Atlantic + Sonore Microrendu
    Analog: Acoustic Signature Challenger MkIII w/TA-1000 arm & Sumiko Palos Santos Presentation on Minus-K BM6 Isolation + Zanden 1300MkII and Vendetta SCP2A Phonos
    ICs & SCs: Kubala Sosna Expression
    PCs: Vitus Andromeda, Auditioning PCs for DAC and Phono
    Power: PS Audio Dectet (looking to replace)

  • #2
    Myles?
    Analog- VPIClassic3-3DArm,SoundsmithZephyrII+MiyajimaZeroMono, 2xAmpex ATR-102,Doshi3.0,Merrill Trident Master Tape Pre,Herron VTPH-2A
    Dig Rip-Pyramix,IzotopeRX3Adv,Mykerinos,PacMicroModel2
    Dig Play-mchNADAC, LampiPac, Roon, HQP, Oppo105
    Electronics-Doshi Pre,CJ MET1mchPre, Cary2A3monoamps
    Speakers-AvantgardeDuosLR,3SolosC,LR,RR
    Other-2x512Engineer/Marutani Symmetrical Power, AudioDiskVinylCleaner,AirTightRecordFlat, Scott Rust Interconnects,
    Music-15KRecs(90%classical),1.3KR2Rtapes,50TBrips

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by comedus76 View Post
      Hello all,

      New joiner here - been reading for a while and it looked like at least a few of the regulars here are NYC residents, so here goes.

      I'm keen to get some friendly advise on cleaning up the power to my components. I live in Manhattan in an apartment building on the Upper East Side. It's close to impossible to carry out any electrical work anytime soon for me (like 20A dedicated lines for the components or replace outlets or some other structural fix). While I'm VERY pleased with the sound (especially after adding S1MkIIs - thanks to Bob @ Rhapsody) I'm getting at the moment, I'm curious if there's something "hidden" in there that I could unearth by addressing the power part of my setup.

      I've done the usual reading on the forums and mags trying to get a sense of where to start but most of the advise seems tailored to folks who already have dedicated lines running to their homes and to their listening rooms. In an apartment building scenario, I'm not really sure where to start. Is dirty power coming into the apartment the biggest issue, is the EMI/RFI coming for PC/Networking equipment plugged into other outlets in the house a bigger issue, is grounding good or bad for the building itself, might upgrading the power cords alleviate most of the upstream issues, etc. Is there a way (and is it worthwhile) to measure any of this to actually test where the problems might lie? Since I don't have unlimited funds (not to mention space), I can't simply acquire a full 'stack' of power components.

      So the advise I'm looking for is:
      1. where to start (line conditioner, distributor, EMI/RFI suppressor, power cords)
      2. what products have folks used here in NYC that have helped address one or more of these issues (brands/models)
      3. what's the order of priority to allocate funds

      Any and all practical advise on how to optimize my setup is greatly appreciated.

      Thanks in advance
      Glad to have you aboard. Reckon we're close neighbors. I'm up on East 84th. St.!



      Very nice system!

      Welcome to apartment dwelling. These are the same questions that I've asked over the years (perhaps Al who's an electrician too in NYC can add his thoughts too!).

      Priorities. For me and probably most, the first thing to address is getting dedicated lines into the apartment. (now there are always things people can nitpick about but we can't always look for perfection in an apt. but the best we can do.)

      I posted this advice previously from Jim Weill regarding putting in dedicated lines:

      Here is something going back years ago that one should also consider about installing dedicated lines and AC power:

      (1) Audiophiles might be advised to hire an electrician (and insist on the following) and have them check that the AC lines running to their equipment is on the same leg - otherwise the AC wave form running to your power transformers on different equipment will be 180 degrees out of phase with some of your other devices. This can increase the noise floor and produce ground loop hum.

      (2) Another might be for the electrician to use a Power Factor Analyzer, measure the two legs and choose the better of the two.

      (3) Finally, have electrician clean the connections and retorque everything to factory specs. Sparky will not want to do this but insist and WATCH them do it.

      (Thanks for these suggestions to Jim Weill! of Sound Applications)


      Now I've not played with the the type of wiring inside the wall but others might comment (of course this sort of thing has to meet building code!).

      Now it seems the above might be hard right now but I strongly suggest getting rid of the fifty cent AC receptacles (since they add noise, grunge, etc. to the sound). Especially in an older apt. At the very least some of Albert Porter's Porterports and at the best something like the Furutech AC receptacles. You'd be shocked in the absence of even doing anything else, how much of a difference changing the AC receptacles makes! That might be a good place to just start.

      Then I would suggest some sort of AC line conditioning. Problem is here there are more pretenders than actual products that work, especially when it comes to amplifiers. Two that many people have had success with are the Silver Circle AC line conditioner (that I use) and the Shunyata Research products. My suggestion is see if you can at least arrange a demo to see it works before plunking down the money. But at least use some sort of AC line PLC on the front-end, especially using digital products. In fact, I'd keep digital products on their own line. In the end, one thing to listen for is is the background quietness.

      Power cords are hit or miss. People might suggest some that work for them but again, try and arrange to hear some power cords before you buy.
      Myles B. Astor, PhD, Administrator
      Senior Editor, Positive-Feedback.com
      ________________________________________

      -Zellaton Plural Evo speakers
      -Goldmund Telos 300 stereo amp
      -Goldmund Mimesis 37S Nextgen preamplifier
      -Doshi EVO and Goldmund PH3.8 phonostage
      -VPI Vanquish direct-drive turntable
      -VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy dual pivot tonearm, VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy gimballed and SAT LM-12 arm
      -Lyra Atlas SL Lambda, Fuuga Mk. 2, vdh Colibri Master Signature, MutechHayabusa, MOFI Master Tracker, Sumiko Songbird cartridges
      -Technics RS1506 with Flux Magnetic heads, Doshi V3.0 tape stage (balanced)
      -Assorted cables including Transparent XL Gen. 6, Skogrand, Viero, Kubala-Sosna, Audience Au24SX, Genesis Advanced Technologies and Ensemble Power Cords
      -Accessories including Stillpoint Aperture panels, Cathedral Sound panels, Furutech NCF Nano AC receptacles; Silver Circle Tchaik 6 PLC, Symposium ISIS and SRA Craz 3 racks, Audiodharma Cable Cooker, Symposium Ultra and assorted SRA OHIO Class 2.1+ platforms.

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm not in an apartment, but even with dedicated lines up in the country north of Manhattan, I've found that isolation transformers do a lot of positive things to ameliorate noise- in my case, by isolating a noisy device (a motor on an air compressor) from the rest of my system. In theory, the reverse should hold true as well--having the components run from such a transformer could free it from the nasties of a building electrical system over which you have little control. The chief "issue" with these things is their own noise- they hum. So, the layout of power cables would have to take account of locating the transformer(s) in places where you aren't going to hear them humming away. One of the chief benefits, I think, is that you are doing very little "conditioning" of the signal by use of an isolation transformer alone; you can certainly add line conditioning between the transformer and the component(s) or not, as needed. The other advantage of isolation transformers is that you don't necessarily have to buy "audiophile approved" products- one I am currently using for an air compressor is sold as a medical grade device.
        I don't know what code requirements are, so that's a factor. These transformers can be configured as 15 amp with a 20 amp plug, or run from a 240 volt line and step down to 120. Some are sold as plug and play--in Faraday cages with self-contained breaker switch; others can be bought naked and wired in--though again, that may raise code issues that a qualified electrician should be able to address.
        I don't use any conditioning on my system equipment- just dedicated lines from a subpanel. Some gear manufacturers caution against conditioning, presumably due to current deprivation. My system improved after installation of the dedicated lines and eventual removal of conditioning devices that were available 10 years ago. Myles' comment about isolating the digital is a fair point- I don't have any digital stuff hooked up in this system or room so I never crossed that bridge (and eliminated wi-fi nodes and switching supplies for ancillaries on the floor where the system resides).
        Most electricians aren't "audio" savvy-- for good reason--there is nothing particularly unique about electricity and audio other than good practices, but sometimes, there are "better" practices for audio that a competent electrician will follow, at least when it comes to setting up dedicated lines, grounding, etc. that may not come into play with an apartment if you can't go that far, given how the building/apartment wiring is set up and code issues. (For example, using a certain type of panel with a copper grounding buss if you are able to install a new or adjacent subpanel; how the lines should remain "unbundled" if snaked through walls, etc.).
        My overall take is that the further upstream you address the issues, starting with the transformer (on the pole) outside, the less you need the band-aids closer to the gear itself- fancy conditioners, uber priced power cables, but everything makes a difference, including the receptacles (and I don't have super fancy receptacles here, just good 'ol Albert Ports).
        There is a guy who is on one of the fora, JEA48 is his web moniker, who is a hi-fi nut and electrical engineer type who knows code and can speak authoritatively. I can try to drag him over here to help too. (His responses to questions helped me, and he continues to provide solid, code compliant advice to others).

        Comment


        • #5
          I have a white paper titled "Poor Man's Dedicated Circuit" which is a simple low cost improvement that can be made by people with daisy chained outlets (serial connections).

          Recently I found an electrician through the Pacific Northwest Audio Society (I live in Seattle) who is also an audiophile (he's a tube guy, but I won't hold that against him). It is very helpful to hire an electrician who understands the goals of high performance audio systems. We are working together now to design and install new wiring systems in our area. I'll provide more information on a current project in a new thread in about a month.

          Speakers/Amps: Genesis G2.2 Jr with Powered Servo-Sub Bass, Genesis GR1440 Mono Amps, 5,000 watts total power
          Preamp: SMc Audio VRE-1C Preamp (fully balanced inputs and output)
          Analog 1: VPI Signature 21 Belt-Drive Turntable w/ 10” 3D Printed Fatboy Gimbal Arm and Ortofon MC Windfeld Ti Phono Cartridge driving Lehmann Silver Cube Phono Preamp
          Analog 2: VPI HW-40 Direct-Drive Turntable w/ 12” 3D Printed Fatboy Gimbal Arm and Ortofon MC Anna Diamond Phono Cartridge driving Genesis Gold Phono Preamp
          Analog 3: Studer A810 R2R tape w/ Bridge Console. Using built-in tape preamp
          Digital: Lumin Network Player with Lumin NAS
          Cables: Genesis Advanced Technologies/Absolute Fidelity Interface Interconnects, Speaker, Phono and Power
          A/C Power: Extensive System Upgrades, Sub-panel w/hard-wired power cables, and IsoTek Super Titan Passive Power Conditioning for Amplifiers
          Accessories: Custom Acrylic Equipment Stands, Klaudio Ultrasonic RCM

          Comment


          • MylesBAstor
            MylesBAstor commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks Joe. I would also add keeping digital gear on a separate line bears dividends.

        • #6
          IMO you should also check how polluted is in fact your line. On your demand the company that provides electrical energy to you is obligated to test if your line is in accordance to the rules and regulations. That way you will get the basic information if your line is OK or not. The second thing you can do is to buy an EMI meter and measure this important interference yourself. The Line EMI Meter measures electromagnetic interference in a single-phase AC power line. It plugs into a wall outlet (mains socket) and displays total line noise in millivolts (range 1999 mV, resolution 1 mV) in the frequency range 10 KHz – 10 MHz. A speaker plays the sound of the EMI, amplitude demodulated, in order to identify the EMI source (such as an AM or shortwave radio station vs. a motor vs. an electric arc). It's relatively cheap ($130-170). Go to: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Line-Li.../dp/B00OY2NKAC. I'm sure you can measure lots of other interferences with more complicated and expensive devices, but for starters this one should do.

          Before I got the P.I.Audio Group UberBuss AC conditioner, I bought one and measurements were very interesting...

          This is a measurement direct from the wall:

          Click image for larger version

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          And this is a measurement from the UberBuss: Good result IMO but after the 50 hours of burn-in the result is even better - around 45mV.

          Click image for larger version

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          Source: Kuzma XL DC/4Point 14 inch/CAR60; Phono: Zanden 1200 Signature; Tuner: Magnum Dynalab MD-108T Signature; Line Stage: Zanden 3000 Mk2; Power amp: Lamm 1.2 Reference; Speakers: AlsyVox Botticelli; Grounding: Tripoint Troy Elite NG; Cable system: Cardas Clear Beyond; Stands: Finite Elemente Master Reference & Master Reference Heavy Duty; Power strip: Cardas Nautilus; Power filter: P.I Audo: BUSS Depot; Acoustics treatment: Svanå Miljöteknik AB (SMT);

          Comment


          • #7
            Originally posted by Marcus View Post
            IMO you should also check how polluted is in fact your line. On your demand the company that provides electrical energy to you is obligated to test if your line is in accordance to the rules and regulations. That way you will get the basic information if your line is OK or not. The second thing you can do is to buy an EMI meter and measure this important interference yourself. The Line EMI Meter measures electromagnetic interference in a single-phase AC power line. It plugs into a wall outlet (mains socket) and displays total line noise in millivolts (range 1999 mV, resolution 1 mV) in the frequency range 10 KHz – 10 MHz. A speaker plays the sound of the EMI, amplitude demodulated, in order to identify the EMI source (such as an AM or shortwave radio station vs. a motor vs. an electric arc). It's relatively cheap ($130-170). Go to: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Line-Li.../dp/B00OY2NKAC. I'm sure you can measure lots of other interferences with more complicated and expensive devices, but for starters this one should do.

            Before I got the P.I.Audio Group UberBuss AC conditioner, I bought one and measurements were very interesting...

            This is a measurement direct from the wall:
            Click image for larger version  Name:	P1010041.jpg Views:	1 Size:	828.0 KB ID:	34847



            And this is a measurement from the UberBuss: Good result IMO but after the 50 hours of burn-in the result is even better - around 45mV.
            Click image for larger version  Name:	P1010040.jpg Views:	1 Size:	824.7 KB ID:	34848
            Thanks, definitely looks worth checking into.

            Just for s**ts and giggles. Do you see any difference in the noise levels during the day or from day to day? Have you tried it on other PLCs?

            Do you know if it's measuring common or transverse mode noise?
            Myles B. Astor, PhD, Administrator
            Senior Editor, Positive-Feedback.com
            ________________________________________

            -Zellaton Plural Evo speakers
            -Goldmund Telos 300 stereo amp
            -Goldmund Mimesis 37S Nextgen preamplifier
            -Doshi EVO and Goldmund PH3.8 phonostage
            -VPI Vanquish direct-drive turntable
            -VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy dual pivot tonearm, VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy gimballed and SAT LM-12 arm
            -Lyra Atlas SL Lambda, Fuuga Mk. 2, vdh Colibri Master Signature, MutechHayabusa, MOFI Master Tracker, Sumiko Songbird cartridges
            -Technics RS1506 with Flux Magnetic heads, Doshi V3.0 tape stage (balanced)
            -Assorted cables including Transparent XL Gen. 6, Skogrand, Viero, Kubala-Sosna, Audience Au24SX, Genesis Advanced Technologies and Ensemble Power Cords
            -Accessories including Stillpoint Aperture panels, Cathedral Sound panels, Furutech NCF Nano AC receptacles; Silver Circle Tchaik 6 PLC, Symposium ISIS and SRA Craz 3 racks, Audiodharma Cable Cooker, Symposium Ultra and assorted SRA OHIO Class 2.1+ platforms.

            Comment


            • Marcus
              Marcus commented
              Editing a comment
              Absolutely Myles. Even measurements at different times of the day showed very different results. I even measured occasional and short peaks of 650-850mV. UberBuss is able to lower noises to less than 200mV. Unfortunately I didn't test it on other PLCs and have no idea if it measures common or transverse mode noise.

            • MylesBAstor
              MylesBAstor commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks Marcus! Fascinating.

            • Marcus
              Marcus commented
              Editing a comment
              Yes Myles but even more fascinating are readings when I power up a TV (Panasonic plasma) or a light with dimmer activated. Readings go up to 800-1100...Regular LED's and halogens have no impact on readings. I was testing the electricity yesterday for two hours in the afternoon and was able to observe the influence on it of various machines in other apartments powering up and down. Crazy...

          • #8
            Wow - thank you all for the warm welcome and the practical suggestions. Here's the progress since yesterday:

            1. 2 new Furutech outlets (thank you Myles) - on order; now negotiate with bldg. electrician to install it next week
            2. EMI line meter - on order (thank you Marcus)
            3. Entech wide band noise analyzer (saw a Shunyata video that was using this) - on order

            Will report back with measurements next week and impact of new outlets once installed.

            Next step will be researching the white paper, setting up a consult with a competent and audio-aware electrician (if I can find one) and looking up Shunyata and Silver Circle offerings as per Myles' suggestions. Quick question here - anyone know the difference between a SC Tchaik 6 and a SC Pure Power 5.0. Best I can tell is that both have a 5KV isolation transformer but the Tchaik has a "Magnetic Wave" something built-in. Substantial price difference so keen to learn impact of the difference.

            Thanks again all for the ideas.

            P.S: Myles - Thank you for the welcome! I'm on 77th - I'm sure we must have crossed paths in the neighborhood before!
            Speakers: Magico S1MkII
            Amp: Vitus SS-011 w/Vol Control
            Digital: Lampizator Atlantic + Sonore Microrendu
            Analog: Acoustic Signature Challenger MkIII w/TA-1000 arm & Sumiko Palos Santos Presentation on Minus-K BM6 Isolation + Zanden 1300MkII and Vendetta SCP2A Phonos
            ICs & SCs: Kubala Sosna Expression
            PCs: Vitus Andromeda, Auditioning PCs for DAC and Phono
            Power: PS Audio Dectet (looking to replace)

            Comment


            • Joe Pittman
              Joe Pittman commented
              Editing a comment
              Myles, are you talking about my simple Furutech GTX-D wiring instructions for DIY? If so, you can find it on my Useful Information page.
              http://www.kosmic.us/useful-information.html

              Also make sure to purchase the latest Furutech NCF outlets!

            • MylesBAstor
              MylesBAstor commented
              Editing a comment
              I think a while back Mike L. talked about some special things and lengths you went to when installed his AC receptacles?

            • Joe Pittman
              Joe Pittman commented
              Editing a comment
              In addition to the Furutech GTX-D R NCF receptacles I also highly recommend the GTX Wall Plate and 104-D Cover ( http://www.kosmic.us/power-receptacles.html ). I also re-terminated Mike's power cables with the new Furutech FI-50 NCF connectors (plug and IEC). Based on years of experience installing outlets and connectors, I have a very specific and step-wise installation/assembly/QC process.

              My latest power installation design (for new installations) adds a custom carbon fiber mounting chassis and high performance wiring including pure silver hot wire for improved performance.

          • #9
            After some holiday travel, I resumed my research into eliminating power noise in my system, so here's a quick summary:

            - New power outlet (Furutech GTX-D R NCF) installed. Definite improvement though difficult for me to articulate - best I can say is a small improvement in image solidity
            - I've been testing the quality of the power using the EMI line meter for the past 5 days; a table with the results is below:
            Direct into Outlet Plugged into PS Dectet
            Daytime1 379mv/122VAC 229mv/122VAC
            Night 1 324mv/122VAC 197mv/122VAC
            Daytime 2 359mv/123VAC 244mv/122VAC
            Night 2 299mv/122VAC 221mv/122VAC
            Daytime 3 479mv/123VAC 337mv/122VAC
            Night 3 355mv/122VAC 253mc/122VAC
            Daytime 4 424mv/122VAC 214mv/122VAC
            Night 4 362mv/122VAC 193mv/122VAC
            Daytime 5 346mv/123VAC 217mv/122VAC
            Night 5 289mv/122VAC 185mv/122VAC
            My simplistic reading of this suggests that the input voltage is quite stable while the EMI/EFI leaves room for a lot of improvement. Based on this, I think that more than an isolation transformer a EMI/RFI reduction unit (like a Shunyata Denali or Ansuz MainzD or something similar) should be my first port of call for a in-home trial? Does that make sense?

            Happy holidays to everyone and of course, any thoughts welcome!
            Speakers: Magico S1MkII
            Amp: Vitus SS-011 w/Vol Control
            Digital: Lampizator Atlantic + Sonore Microrendu
            Analog: Acoustic Signature Challenger MkIII w/TA-1000 arm & Sumiko Palos Santos Presentation on Minus-K BM6 Isolation + Zanden 1300MkII and Vendetta SCP2A Phonos
            ICs & SCs: Kubala Sosna Expression
            PCs: Vitus Andromeda, Auditioning PCs for DAC and Phono
            Power: PS Audio Dectet (looking to replace)

            Comment


            • #10
              Originally posted by comedus76 View Post
              Hello all,

              New joiner here - been reading for a while and it looked like at least a few of the regulars here are NYC residents, so here goes.

              I'm keen to get some friendly advise on cleaning up the power to my components. I live in Manhattan in an apartment building on the Upper East Side. It's close to impossible to carry out any electrical work anytime soon for me (like 20A dedicated lines for the components or replace outlets or some other structural fix). While I'm VERY pleased with the sound (especially after adding S1MkIIs - thanks to Bob @ Rhapsody) I'm getting at the moment, I'm curious if there's something "hidden" in there that I could unearth by addressing the power part of my setup.

              I've done the usual reading on the forums and mags trying to get a sense of where to start but most of the advise seems tailored to folks who already have dedicated lines running to their homes and to their listening rooms. In an apartment building scenario, I'm not really sure where to start. Is dirty power coming into the apartment the biggest issue, is the EMI/RFI coming for PC/Networking equipment plugged into other outlets in the house a bigger issue, is grounding good or bad for the building itself, might upgrading the power cords alleviate most of the upstream issues, etc. Is there a way (and is it worthwhile) to measure any of this to actually test where the problems might lie? Since I don't have unlimited funds (not to mention space), I can't simply acquire a full 'stack' of power components.

              So the advise I'm looking for is:
              1. where to start (line conditioner, distributor, EMI/RFI suppressor, power cords)
              2. what products have folks used here in NYC that have helped address one or more of these issues (brands/models)
              3. what's the order of priority to allocate funds

              Any and all practical advise on how to optimize my setup is greatly appreciated.

              Thanks in advance
              I hate to be a downer but the likelyhood of you making great positive contributions to your power ingress unlikely in an apartment situation for various reasons- mostly you don't have control over the quality of the distribution system - the landlord does.

              The easy stuff:

              Myles makes some good points in measuring the power factor of your supply- although in a residential high rise there is little that you might be able to do about it. Also, checking and adjusting that your equipment is one leg of your supply is helpful. Thirdly, you can check the tightness AND cleanliness of connections in the panel and change the receptacles to good quality audio grade types. If you have the luxury to run dedicated lines then by all means do that. All this to be completed by a licensed electrician. Check the fitness of all your receptacles while your at it. They don't last forever and if there has been a myriad of dwellers in the unit before you the spring tension and connectors should be checked- actually you might as well replace them.

              Finally check your grounding. In NYC you probably run metallic conduit and armoured cable for fire code and pest protection make sure grounds have integrity.

              So work to be done, and if done correctly you will have a positive impact even though you may not be able to alter the main supply hardware and dedicated lines.

              In my research work in a previous life we spent countless hours monitoring PF, line voltage , EMI etc . with 24 hour data loggers, strip chart recorders and other equipment. Industrial manufacturing environments posed wild challenges with multiple grounds and phantom currents playing havoc with sensitive control equipment. Your apartment should be a breeze
              Last edited by kcin; 12-28-2016, 09:48 PM.
              Phono: Aesthetix Io Eclipse with 2 Power Supplies and Volume controls
              Brinkmann Balance & RonT Tube Power supply with Kuzma 4-point ,FR64S, Brinkmann 12.1 , .Koetsu Jade Platinum,Koetsu Rosewood Signature Platinum, Lyra Atlas Lamda, Lyra Etna SL Goldfinger Statement, KLAUDIO RCM, HRSM3X
              Amps: Custom Direct Drive, Wyetech Topaz, Futterman H3 Quad II,Citation II, Marantz 8b, 5 ,2. Bedini 25/25
              Pre-Amps:Marantz 7, Marantz Model 1 Consolette Pair
              Speakers: Beveridge Model 3 Direct Drive amps, REL S/2 x 2, Quad ESL pair
              Otari 5050BXII, DeHavilland 222

              Comment


              • #11
                Talk to David Stanard at Silver Circle. he is closing shop and has 4 brand new TCHAIK 6s in stock, Perhaps he can work out somethign for you? I own one along with the ByBee AC unit. You could also consider the PS Audio units that regenerate the AC.
                Dave Clark
                Editor and Publisher, Positive Feedback
                www.positive-feedback.com

                Comment


                • #12
                  A warm welcome for you. You found a great forums
                  kind and very smart people.
                  I promise to read all replies and pit two cents in.
                  Quickly a few things for you to look into.
                  One pa do you have dedicated AC outlets. The single outlet amd are they being used or near your setup ?
                  Do a quick inspection and tightening it all up is a great start. A pic of your panel if there is one in your place is needed.
                  Daves mention of ps audio I too feel is a good idea to think about. I own a few of them. They really work.
                  They solve a few common issues.
                  1- voltage sag as they internally regulate after they conver t back to AC. They also show what THD noise in and out
                  also D.C. Offset can be determined.
                  2- is really lower noise many kinds as they regenerate from AC to D.C. And back.
                  Your system looks nice. I too own a couple of lampi dacs.
                  Great stuff. Is your dac dsd and pcm ?

                  Ill read all in the morning and reply.
                  analog stuff.
                  otari mtr 10 2 track 1/4 made new by soren
                  otari mtr 10 2 track 1/4 1/2 combo made new by soren
                  sota sapphire used eminent tech ver 2 arm
                  new sota nova table has magnetic levitation platter and full speed control and latest motor same arm as above
                  thorens td124 sme ver 2 arm
                  thorens td125 sme ver 2 arm
                  kenwood direct drive sme ver 2 arm
                  phono preamp Ml no 25 all re capped
                  speakers cust infinity IRS V , new caps and LPS , magnets etc.
                  mark levivson pre no 26 amps no 33
                  digital three cust servers , win ser 2016 , AO
                  Dacs lampi various

                  Comment

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