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  • Tape Head Cable

    If you have had your deck modified for Direct Head Output with RCA connectors, I can highly recommend the Furutech AG12 tonearm cable. It made a significant difference.
    System 1- Wilson Alexia 2, Pass XA100.8, Ref 6, Pass XP27 phono, Esoteric K1, G1, N05, Avid Acutus Ref with SME V and Koetsu Onyx, Studer 807, J-Corder flux heads direct balanced output, Doshi 3.0 tape preamp,Modified Revox PR99, Teac X-2000M, Kimber Selects, Cardas Clear Beyond power.
    System 2 - Magnepan 3.7, Magnepan MMG (rear), Rel sub, Pass X-250.5, Marantz (rear), Pass XP-22, Parasound preamp, Vendetta Phono SCP-2T, SME 20/3 with SME V & Lyra Atlas, OPPO 205, Sony SCD-5400ES, Revox B-77, Kimber Selects.
    System 3 - Luxman L-505 UXII, Project Classic SP, Hana SL, JBL L-100 Classic, Oppo 205

  • #2
    which deck and what head are you using it with and is it wired straight out of the head block or routed through the machine out the back...I cant find a spec for AG12's capacitance do you know it?
    Linn Kilmax LP12 | Channel D Lino C | innous ZENMini | Kii Three

    Comment


    • #3
      I have similar questions because I'd like to rewire my Studer A807 so that I have a direct connection to the repro head.

      I was planning on mounting some panel-mounted XLR connectors on the back of the chassis and wiring a pair of shielded wires from the repro head to the XLR's. I would assume the above Furutech (or any other high-grade tonearm) cable would be suitable for the job.

      Am I trivializing this modification?


      Speakers: Rockport Avior
      Amp: Ypsilon Aelius Mk II Silver Edition
      Preamp: Pass Labs XS
      Phono preamp: Ypsilon VPS-100, Slagle Silver SUTs
      Phono: Continuum Criterion, Kuzma 4-Point, Lyra Etna SL (and others)
      Digital: LauferTeknik Memory Player, dCS Scarlatti DAC
      Tape: Studer A80 RC, King/Cello preamp

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by squasher View Post
        I have similar questions because I'd like to rewire my Studer A807 so that I have a direct connection to the repro head.

        I was planning on mounting some panel-mounted XLR connectors on the back of the chassis and wiring a pair of shielded wires from the repro head to the XLR's. I would assume the above Furutech (or any other high-grade tonearm) cable would be suitable for the job.

        Am I trivializing this modification?

        its not trivial, if you can bypass the XLR (straight, unbroken wire run) mo betta. Charlie King found this site and can shed some light on the importance of low capacitance wire and keeping it away from motors etc.
        Linn Kilmax LP12 | Channel D Lino C | innous ZENMini | Kii Three

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Rob View Post

          its not trivial, if you can bypass the XLR (straight, unbroken wire run) mo betta. Charlie King found this site and can shed some light on the importance of low capacitance wire and keeping it away from motors etc.
          I can appreciate that.....

          Any recommended Studer techs in the Boston, MA area who have done this type of work? I'm not averse to this type of mod but also would like the info in case I need other work done to my Studer.
          Last edited by squasher; 05-10-2016, 09:02 PM.
          Speakers: Rockport Avior
          Amp: Ypsilon Aelius Mk II Silver Edition
          Preamp: Pass Labs XS
          Phono preamp: Ypsilon VPS-100, Slagle Silver SUTs
          Phono: Continuum Criterion, Kuzma 4-Point, Lyra Etna SL (and others)
          Digital: LauferTeknik Memory Player, dCS Scarlatti DAC
          Tape: Studer A80 RC, King/Cello preamp

          Comment


          • #6
            I asked Nick and Charlie to comment but I'll just add that the wire out from the head should be as short and low capacitance as possible. Nick gave me a value of <10 pF per foot. Otherwise the FR of the machine will be affected.

            Just another cautionary note. I ran mine outside the machine because I always had a light hum in the right channel when routing the wire internally. Sometimes that wire just is a little too close to a motor or something else inside the machine.
            Myles B. Astor, PhD, Administrator
            Senior Editor, Positive-Feedback.com
            ________________________________________

            -Magico S5 Mk.2 speakers with SPod feet
            -cj 40th Anniversary ART300 monoblock amplifiers
            -Merrill Audio Elemente 116 monoblock amplifiers
            -cj GAT preamplifier Series 2 preamplifier
            -Doshi V3.0 phonostage
            -VPI Vanquish direct-drive turntable
            -VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy dual pivot tonearm, VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy gimballed and SAT LM-12 arm
            -Lyra Atlas SL, Fuuga, vdh Colibri Master Signature, MOFI Master Tracker, Sumiko Songbird cartridges
            -Technics RS1506 with Flux Magnetic heads, Doshi V3.0 tape stage (balanced)
            -Assorted cables including Transparent XL Gen. 5, Allnic cables, Skogrand, Viero, Kubala-Sosna, MG Audio, Audience Au24SX, Genesis Advanced Technologies Power Cords
            -Accessories including Stillpoint Aperture panels, Cathedral Sound panels, Furutech NCF Nano AC receptacles; Silver Circle Tchaik 6 PLC, Symposium ISIS and SRA Craz racks, Audiodharma Cable Cooker, Symposium Ultra and assorted SRA platforms.

            Comment


            • #7
              A couple of important notes:
              Tape heads are inductive devices and with the capacitance of the cable , they will have a peak in frequency response so for flattest response keep head inductance and cable capacitance low
              Also, even if you are terminating the head into a SE input, use a 2 conductor plus shield cable. Tie the shield to chassis on the transport.
              A good low cost cable is a AES 110 ohm cable like Gotham audio. It has good shielding

              Comment


              • #8
                This makes me think that a tape head direct wiring advice thread or sticky would be useful as a resource for folks willing to DIY.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Doshiaudio View Post
                  A good low cost cable is a AES 110 ohm cable like Gotham audio. It has good shielding
                  Any suggestions for a better (albeit higher cost) cable? Not that I'm unwilling to try the Gotham cable, but if I'm going through the time and effort, I'd want to wire it with the "best" reasonable solution available.

                  Originally posted by Tunes
                  This makes me think that a tape head direct wiring advice thread or sticky would be useful as a resource for folks willing to DIY.
                  A great idea! This is the first thing I looked for and couldn't find a topic anywhere in the forum.

                  Speakers: Rockport Avior
                  Amp: Ypsilon Aelius Mk II Silver Edition
                  Preamp: Pass Labs XS
                  Phono preamp: Ypsilon VPS-100, Slagle Silver SUTs
                  Phono: Continuum Criterion, Kuzma 4-Point, Lyra Etna SL (and others)
                  Digital: LauferTeknik Memory Player, dCS Scarlatti DAC
                  Tape: Studer A80 RC, King/Cello preamp

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by squasher View Post

                    Any suggestions for a better (albeit higher cost) cable? Not that I'm unwilling to try the Gotham cable, but if I'm going through the time and effort, I'd want to wire it with the "best" reasonable solution available.



                    A great idea! This is the first thing I looked for and couldn't find a topic anywhere in the forum.
                    Done!

                    I'm sure that Ki has a few suggestions too about choice of wire out from the headblockd
                    Myles B. Astor, PhD, Administrator
                    Senior Editor, Positive-Feedback.com
                    ________________________________________

                    -Magico S5 Mk.2 speakers with SPod feet
                    -cj 40th Anniversary ART300 monoblock amplifiers
                    -Merrill Audio Elemente 116 monoblock amplifiers
                    -cj GAT preamplifier Series 2 preamplifier
                    -Doshi V3.0 phonostage
                    -VPI Vanquish direct-drive turntable
                    -VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy dual pivot tonearm, VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy gimballed and SAT LM-12 arm
                    -Lyra Atlas SL, Fuuga, vdh Colibri Master Signature, MOFI Master Tracker, Sumiko Songbird cartridges
                    -Technics RS1506 with Flux Magnetic heads, Doshi V3.0 tape stage (balanced)
                    -Assorted cables including Transparent XL Gen. 5, Allnic cables, Skogrand, Viero, Kubala-Sosna, MG Audio, Audience Au24SX, Genesis Advanced Technologies Power Cords
                    -Accessories including Stillpoint Aperture panels, Cathedral Sound panels, Furutech NCF Nano AC receptacles; Silver Circle Tchaik 6 PLC, Symposium ISIS and SRA Craz racks, Audiodharma Cable Cooker, Symposium Ultra and assorted SRA platforms.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My local tech ran wiring internally to rca connects on the back. I'm using an Otari 5050.
                      System 1- Wilson Alexia 2, Pass XA100.8, Ref 6, Pass XP27 phono, Esoteric K1, G1, N05, Avid Acutus Ref with SME V and Koetsu Onyx, Studer 807, J-Corder flux heads direct balanced output, Doshi 3.0 tape preamp,Modified Revox PR99, Teac X-2000M, Kimber Selects, Cardas Clear Beyond power.
                      System 2 - Magnepan 3.7, Magnepan MMG (rear), Rel sub, Pass X-250.5, Marantz (rear), Pass XP-22, Parasound preamp, Vendetta Phono SCP-2T, SME 20/3 with SME V & Lyra Atlas, OPPO 205, Sony SCD-5400ES, Revox B-77, Kimber Selects.
                      System 3 - Luxman L-505 UXII, Project Classic SP, Hana SL, JBL L-100 Classic, Oppo 205

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That's how Doc B. originally wired my Technics RS1500 too. Always had a small issue with hum and when one of the connectors on the back broke (and it's a bear to work inside the unit), just decided to run the leads out the front of the deck. Bonus was no hum!
                        Myles B. Astor, PhD, Administrator
                        Senior Editor, Positive-Feedback.com
                        ________________________________________

                        -Magico S5 Mk.2 speakers with SPod feet
                        -cj 40th Anniversary ART300 monoblock amplifiers
                        -Merrill Audio Elemente 116 monoblock amplifiers
                        -cj GAT preamplifier Series 2 preamplifier
                        -Doshi V3.0 phonostage
                        -VPI Vanquish direct-drive turntable
                        -VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy dual pivot tonearm, VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy gimballed and SAT LM-12 arm
                        -Lyra Atlas SL, Fuuga, vdh Colibri Master Signature, MOFI Master Tracker, Sumiko Songbird cartridges
                        -Technics RS1506 with Flux Magnetic heads, Doshi V3.0 tape stage (balanced)
                        -Assorted cables including Transparent XL Gen. 5, Allnic cables, Skogrand, Viero, Kubala-Sosna, MG Audio, Audience Au24SX, Genesis Advanced Technologies Power Cords
                        -Accessories including Stillpoint Aperture panels, Cathedral Sound panels, Furutech NCF Nano AC receptacles; Silver Circle Tchaik 6 PLC, Symposium ISIS and SRA Craz racks, Audiodharma Cable Cooker, Symposium Ultra and assorted SRA platforms.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi guys,

                          ‚ÄčThis question has come up before on other websites. Suggest doing some research on the Tape Project site. Certainly don't believe that it is a "trivial" topic, because "as we all know; wire matters". Time to duck!

                          I was "lucky" and got some Cello shielded Litz cable that I've used on the headblocks I've "wired out". As far as "commercially available" cable, I'd shy away from tonearm cable as the very thin gauge (in the 30's) is DIFFICULT to solder and NOT strong - read "can break easily". I'd opine that you want a flexible cable with wire gauges in the mid 20's, which will convert to a "reasonable" outside dimension of around 3/16" or less. That said, I believe that Cardas makes a 2X24 (two conductor 24 gauge) and for that matter a 1X 21.5 cable but don't know who distributes it. Believe Doc B used to offer the Cardas 2X24 but haven't checked in a long time. PartsConnexion, also offers a CONNEX 66070 cable that may work but with no specs that I can find. Don't know anything about the Gotham cable. O yeah, I'd opine that as long as you keep the cable length not much over a meter (like what they do with tonearms), I've found that cable capacitance isn't too much of a problem.

                          How you "wire out" the head depends if the preamp has a balanced or unbalanced input. If balanced (Doshi), you need a two conductor shielded cable and wire the two pins (from each PB head channel output to the "hot conductors" (red/back?)). I'll let Nick suggest what to do with the shield/ground on each end. If unbalanced (like mine, and others) I suggest using a single conductor cable and connect the left PB pin to the "hot conductor" and the right pin to shield. Note that there isn't an "absolute polarity" standard for tape heads that I've been able to find. If you happen to have 2 conductor cable, you can ground one of the hot wires (say, black?) to the shield at both ends. For my pre's, I also suggest running a SEPARATE "chassis ground" wire from a metallic point on the headblock as close as you can get to the PB head itself. The other end may connect to the ground terminal on the pre. Once everything is set up and operating; connect, or leave the ground connection on the pre disconnected - depending on which produces the LOWEST hum and noise - have experienced hum from ground loops thru the power cable of certain transports.

                          And while I'm at it; some of the Studer AXXX machines had a hum problem with my pre; again due to a ground loop. The explanation is more complicated than I want to bother you with here. Fortunately Ki Choi figured that one out. THANKS Ki. Contact me (or him) if you need to go into more depth.

                          Charles

                          ‚ÄčOn re-reading the other posts; Rob asked "where to run the cables"? Good question because if you're limited to a (roughly) one meter cable, preamp placement can be a problem. On my 1500, I have no "cosmetic" problem drilling two holes in the front of the headblock and running the cables "out" form there. On the A812's I've "converted", there is room to drop the cables from the headblock down thru the bottom cowing (keeps them away from the motors) to a preamp placed/mounted under the front of the transport.
                          Last edited by stellavox; 05-12-2016, 03:55 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I have a Studer A810 that I've had modified for switchable PB head output. My technician used the Cardas double shielded 2 x 24M microphone cable (~$20 per foot). He attached the cable to new XLR jacks on the back of the deck, and from there to my upgraded Cello tape preamp. The sound is excellent, and very low noise. I would recommend using the best cable you can find like the Cardas, because of the high gain of repro preamps like the Cello. We're even making jumper cables out of the Cardas microphone cables, to minimize hum/noise. I can use either the Studer internal electronics or the much superior external repro amp now.

                            'Parts Connexion' sells the Cardas cable.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Mike Percy handles bulk Cardas wire, has been in the 'parts business' forever and has excellent pricing.
                              http://www.percyaudio.com/

                              I buy from Chris as well (PC) and he's running a sale on a very good, low capacitance twin-axial cable suitable for phono and tape connections by DH Labs (BL-Ag). it's Teflon insulated, w/ 23 awg stranded pure silver conductors.
                              Linn Kilmax LP12 | Channel D Lino C | innous ZENMini | Kii Three

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