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  • Cartridge Hour Timers

    OK, this one should be easy. It uses a timer module made by ENM Counting Instruments. Model number T1141AB Hour Meter. $27 from Allied Electronics (stock number 70000912). It's a resetable, hour meter. It has a fourth lead that could be coupled to a switch (like when the tonearm is lifted from the holder) to start the timer. It runs off 8 to 28 VDC, so any small 12VDC wall wart will power it.

    I mounted two in a Hammond aluminum case and used a DPDT switch to control which was selected and also to switch the reset buttons to avoid pressing the wrong one. About the only thing I'd do different is the reset switches would be mounted behind the panel necessitating a pencil or something pushed in through a hole to perform the reset.

    So, some pictures...

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    Real easy. Total parts for the dual timer is less than $80, unless you go all out like I did and run a Front Panel Express custom front and back panels (they cost another $60 for the pair).
    Darned autofocus... Simple Wiring.
    Digital (HDCD): Yaqin SD-32A
    Tape Decks: Teac X-2000R, Otari MX-5050 BIII-2 (X2) and BII-2H
    Turntable: VPI Prime Signature, ADS, Periphery Clamp, Dual Pivot, HRX Pulley, Triple Belt
    Cartridges/Arms: Soundsmith Voice/JMW 10 3DR & Lyra Delos/JMW 10 3D
    Phono Preamp: Zestos Andros PS1
    Amp: Manley Stingray II
    Speakers: Madisound Zaph ZRT 2.5 Speakers, Dual Homemade 10", 250 (Ea) Watt Subs
    Power: PS Audio P5
    Accessories: VPI 16.5, Parasound ZPhono USB, JTP Cables, DIY Dual Cartridge Timers

  • #2
    Well done. I'm not sure there is an "audiophile" product out there, is there? Did you do a tonearm trigger on the arm? I'd like to see how you implemented that if you did.

    Comment


    • JimTimP
      JimTimP commented
      Editing a comment
      I figured out a trigger using a small reed SPDT switch and a Magnet. Waiting for supplies. The reed switch is 4mm in diameter and 35mm long. I'm thinking an O ring to hold it to the arm holder and the small magnet stuck to the underside of the arm with Goop Glue. Maybe the other way around if the magnet causes issues. The wires to a small phone plug/jack and done.

    • JimTimP
      JimTimP commented
      Editing a comment
      Update

      I recreated the sensor using a Normally Closed Magnetic Switch (Digikey Part Number 735-1007-ND). This is a Normally Closed switch activated by a Magnet or a piece of ferrous metal. There is an internal magnet drawn to either and will open the switch. So when the arm is at (on the) rest, I have located a small (1/4" X 3/16") piece of sheet steel on the edge of the tonearm to attract the magnet and open the switch (it's VPI 10-3D arms, so on the bell for the Unipivot). When the arm is sufficiently moved away from the sensor, the switch closes and provides voltage to the Increment (I) contact of the timer. Since the 'trigger' is so small, it adds almost zero mass to the arm to upset it's resonances and acoustics. The sensor is about 3/16" in diameter and makes mounting a breeze with a small piece of Aluminum. Double side tape adhered in a convenient location and use the same for the trigger. The sensor comes with two spring rings to mount and locate. Adjusting the sensor for fit and trigger position.

    • Bill Hart
      Bill Hart commented
      Editing a comment
      Pic? You think you could commercialize at a reasonable cost?

  • #3
    Very cool! Is Albert Porter watching?
    Myles B. Astor, PhD, Administrator
    Senior Editor, Positive-Feedback.com
    ________________________________________

    Magico S5 Mk.2 speakers, cj ART300 40th Anniversary monoblock Amplifiers; cj GAT preamplifier Series 2; Doshi V3.0 and Thoress Mk. 2 phonostages; VPI Vanquish turntable/12-inch 3D tonearm/12-inch Fat Boy, SAT LM-12 arm, Lyra Atlas SL, Fuuga, vdh Colibri Master Signature, MOFI Master Tracker, Sumiko Songbird cartridges; Technics RS1506 with Flux Magnetic heads/Doshi V3.0 tape stage run balanced; Assorted cables including Transparent XL Gen. 5, Allnic cables, Skogrand, Viero, Kubala-Sosna, MG Audio, Audience Au24SX, Genesis Advanced Technologies Power Cords. Stillpoint Aperture panels, SPod Magico feet, Cathedral Sound panels, Furutech NCF Nano AC receptacles; Silver Circle Tchaik 6 PLC. Symposium ISIS and SRA Craz racks; Audiodharma Cable Cooker; Symposium Ultra and assorted SRA platforms.

    Comment


    • #4
      Nice - not too many years ago this might of cost upward of $1k based on the technology of the day. I've used similar units in industry for custom control systems.

      Front end: Aesthetix Io Eclipse with 2 Power Supplies and Volume controls
      Brinkmann La Grange & RonT Tube Power supply with Kuzma 4-point ,FR64S, Brinkmann 12.1 , Koetsu Rosewood Signature Platinum, Lyra Atlas, Lyra Etna SL Goldfinger Statement, KLAUDIO RCM, HRSM3X
      Amps: Wyetech Topaz, Futterman H3 Quad II,Citation II, Marantz 8b, 5 ,2
      Pre-Amps: ARC SP 3a, Marantz 7, Marantz Model 1 Consolette Pair
      Speakers: Quad ESL 57, Beveridge Model 3 DD amps, REL S/2 x 2

      Comment


      • #5
        Back in the 1970s I had a Pickering PST-1 stylus timer on my Stanton Turntable. Worked whenever the arm was off it's support. Used that for several years.
        Steve Lefkowicz
        Senior Associate Editor at Positive Feedback
        --------------------------------------------------------
        http://www.audionirvana.org/forum/ti...ounding-system

        Comment


        • #6
          I created one from a mechanical hour timer but I like these timers much better....thanks. The mechanical timer works but it has a low level tick sound each second, like a battery powered clock. The mechanical timer doesn't have a reset switch so its useful life span was ticking off.
          Life is analog...digital is just samples thereof.
          https://www.edsstuff.org
          TT: VPI Prime, HRX Pulley w/3 Belts, Dual Pivot, VPI ADS, Ortofon Windfeld Ti, Liberty B2B-1, Sky 30 Trans
          Line Stage: *Audible Illusions L1
          Pwr Amp: Parasound A21
          Speakers: Magnepan MMC2, Magnepan DW-M, REL T5/i
          Digital: TASCAM UH-7000, Pioneer Elite DV-47Ai, NAD 446
          Headphones: Stax Lambda Pro, HiFiMan HE-400S, Focal Clear
          Cables: Kimber Hero w/WBT, Kimber 8TC, AQ Leopard, AQ King Cobra

          *Modified/Customized Component

          Comment


          • #7
            Bill Hart, Commercial viable? Certainly. It's all COTS parts available from reputable suppliers. Mainly DigiKey. I just don't have the capacity to make them in quantity. Sorry for delay in answering as I didn't see the comment you left as an answer.the delay in answering as I didn't see the comment you left as an answer.

            I've added the pictures of the tonearm sensor, but realized there may be an issue with non-composite material arms. If the arms are steel (or other magnetic material) it will be a problem. Fortunately, very few tonearm bases are steel. The pic are the sensor on my VPI 3D tonearm.

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            Digital (HDCD): Yaqin SD-32A
            Tape Decks: Teac X-2000R, Otari MX-5050 BIII-2 (X2) and BII-2H
            Turntable: VPI Prime Signature, ADS, Periphery Clamp, Dual Pivot, HRX Pulley, Triple Belt
            Cartridges/Arms: Soundsmith Voice/JMW 10 3DR & Lyra Delos/JMW 10 3D
            Phono Preamp: Zestos Andros PS1
            Amp: Manley Stingray II
            Speakers: Madisound Zaph ZRT 2.5 Speakers, Dual Homemade 10", 250 (Ea) Watt Subs
            Power: PS Audio P5
            Accessories: VPI 16.5, Parasound ZPhono USB, JTP Cables, DIY Dual Cartridge Timers

            Comment


            • #8
              You guys have too much Time on your hands

              Comment


              • #9
                I put an hour meter in my system, but it keeps tabs on the preamp, so i know how many hours are on the tubes since last checked/replaced.
                Mine has an LED display and resolves to one one hundreth of an hour (36 sec increments.) As you can see, Ive got nearly 4000 hours on my
                vintage formerly NOS Telefunken signal tubes and they're still going strong. This is since 2006. The counter has a limit of 10,000 hours.

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                Last edited by JCOConnell; 06-13-2018, 06:04 PM.
                Magnepan 1.6 QR Loudspeakers, Amherst A-2000 MOSFET 150 WPC Amp, Conrad Johnson PV-10A Modded Tube Line & Phono Stage, Electrocompaniet MC II Class A Head Amp, Shelter 501 Mark II Cart (St) , Graham Engineering 2.2 Tonearm (St) , VPI Aries-1 Turntable (St) , VPI Clamp, Denon DL-102 Cart, (M) , Luxman Tonearm (M) , Kenwood KD-500 Turntable (M) , Michell Clamp, Marantz 20B Analog FM Tuner, Teac A3300SX R2R, Pioneer SACD, Onkyo DX-6800 CD Transport, DIY 24B/192K DAC, DIY Silver Interconnects

                Comment


                • #10
                  Originally posted by JCOConnell View Post
                  I put an hour meter in my system, but it keeps tabs on the preamp, so i know how many hours are on the tubes since last checked/replaced.
                  JCOConnell.......I built a digital timer ( ENM T44F65C ) with a reset button that operates from one of the 12 volt triggers of my preamplifier. I use it to track the hours on the power tubes in a pair of McIntosh MC2301 power amplifiers.


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                  Dan

                  STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, PurePower 2000, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE with SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
                  LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC452, MR85, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Sony DAT 60ES, Nakamichi BX-300, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    I bought two of those ENM meters and built an hour meter in a small case with remote control turn/off of the timer. I also added a key switch on the back panel to reset the meter when I change cartridges or get a retip job. The key switch prevents accidental reset of the hour meter.

                    I have one blue LED on the front panel to tell when the power is on and a switch on the front with a green LED on the end of the handle. That switch turns on the meter to start accruing time without having to switch on the remote. The light on the end of the switch comes on when the switch is on or when the remote enables the meter (and the switch is down).

                    I spent some money on both front and back panels from the Front Panel Express people. You can google them and find their site.

                    You download their software and design the panels in that application. You can also automatically order from within the application.

                    It took a while to get the panels setup correctly but once done it looks totally professional...just like it came from a reputable manufacturer.

                    I made one for my use and have enough parts to make a second one down the road. If anyone wants my panel designs let me know.

                    I'll add some photos of my meter a bit later...

                    Ed
                    Life is analog...digital is just samples thereof.
                    https://www.edsstuff.org
                    TT: VPI Prime, HRX Pulley w/3 Belts, Dual Pivot, VPI ADS, Ortofon Windfeld Ti, Liberty B2B-1, Sky 30 Trans
                    Line Stage: *Audible Illusions L1
                    Pwr Amp: Parasound A21
                    Speakers: Magnepan MMC2, Magnepan DW-M, REL T5/i
                    Digital: TASCAM UH-7000, Pioneer Elite DV-47Ai, NAD 446
                    Headphones: Stax Lambda Pro, HiFiMan HE-400S, Focal Clear
                    Cables: Kimber Hero w/WBT, Kimber 8TC, AQ Leopard, AQ King Cobra

                    *Modified/Customized Component

                    Comment


                    • JimTimP
                      JimTimP commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Yup Ed, did the same front panel express. Really makes it look professional.

                      Using the magnetic switches makes the timers really slick and more accurate than what I had previously (when the motor power from the ADS was on).

                  • #12
                    Don’t all used cartridges have less than 500 hours of use when they are sold? Kind of like the two beer rule.
                    SP-10 MKII table with custom power supply designed and built by Peter Noerbaek with an SME 3012R with Dyna XV-1S cartridge, VPI Avenger table with rim drive and JMW -12-3D arrm with Lyra Etna SL cartridge, Zesto Andros 1.2 phono stage, Otari MX-55 tape deck, Ampex 350 repros, ARC Ref 6 pre, ARC Ref 75 amp, NOLA KO speakers with a pair of Def Tech Ref subs, and a pair of JBL 4345 speakers.

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	1 Size:	48.6 KB ID:	89752 Pretty cool. I use standard tally counter clickers and have one for each cart, labeled as such. One click counts as 20 minutes on average in my book.20 times the number of clicks divided by 60 gives you hours on the cart. Simple and cheap....especially for multi cart users.
                      https://www.amazon.com/GOGO-Counter-.../dp/B001KX1VW2
                      Christian
                      System Gear

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