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  • Bright Lights

    So what easy solutions have you come across to lessen way too bright LEDs on components?
    Dave Clark
    Editor and Publisher, Positive Feedback
    www.positive-feedback.com

  • #2
    Tiny bits of electrical tape can work wonders.
    Analog: Holbo Turntable, VdH Crimson Strad XGW; Forsell Air Reference, Transfiguration Proteus; Rega RP-8, VAS Nova Mono
    Digital: Mac mini 6,2 with YFS PS-12M LPS; Exogal Comet Plus, Exogal Ion PowerDAC
    Electronics: Aurorasound Vida, Channel D Lino C; Merrill Cara, Gryphon M-100 Mkii (pair)
    Cables: Morrow, Gryphon interconnects; YFS USB cable; Morrow, XLO, Channel D phono cables; Morrow, Gryphon, Goertz speaker cables

    Comment


    • Dave Clark
      Dave Clark commented
      Editing a comment
      For sure, but that can destroy the aesthetics...

  • #3
    Look up on Amazon: LightDims Original Strength - Light Dimming LED covers and Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances

    I haven't used them but a sheet of the stuff is cheap. Don't know about the adhesive though.

    Comment


  • #4
    It's nice when a manufacturer puts the led(s) on the underside of the chassis. It's one of the really nice touches on Merrill Audio's amps.
    Analog: Holbo Turntable, VdH Crimson Strad XGW; Forsell Air Reference, Transfiguration Proteus; Rega RP-8, VAS Nova Mono
    Digital: Mac mini 6,2 with YFS PS-12M LPS; Exogal Comet Plus, Exogal Ion PowerDAC
    Electronics: Aurorasound Vida, Channel D Lino C; Merrill Cara, Gryphon M-100 Mkii (pair)
    Cables: Morrow, Gryphon interconnects; YFS USB cable; Morrow, XLO, Channel D phono cables; Morrow, Gryphon, Goertz speaker cables

    Comment


    • #5
      Blue (or your favorite color) plastic tape, and use a hole punch to make nice looking little circles. Works well and can still look nice.
      Steve Lefkowicz
      Senior Associate Editor at Positive Feedback
      -
      Analog 1: Linn LP12 (MOSE/Hercules II), Ittok, Dynavector 10X5 MK.II Low, iPhono2/iPowerX; Analog 2: Pro-Ject RPM-1 Carbon, Talisman S, iFi iPhono.
      Digital: Samsung 300E5C notebook, JRiver Media Center 28, Tidal HiFi, Qobuz Studio), iFi NEO iDSD, iFi iUSB3, iPurifier2, Audioquest Jitterbug.
      Electronics: DIY passive line-stage, Antique Sound Labs MG-SI15DT-S, Burson Timekeeper Virtuoso
      Speakers: Tekton Perfect SET 15, Tekton Lore, Magneplaner .7
      Interconnects: Morrow Audio MA1, Vermouth Audio Black Pearl, Audioquest Evergreen
      Speaker cables: WyWyres Diamond, Morrow Audio SP4, Vermouth Audio Red Velvet, Audioquest Type 5
      Digital cables: Aural Symphonics USB, iFi Gemini twin-head USB.
      Accessories: Sound Organization turntable shelf, Mondo racks, Pangea Audio Vulcan rack, Pi Audio Group Über BUSS, Monster HTS2000 power conditioner, Kinetronics anti-static brush, Pro-Ject VC-S record cleaner, Spin Clean record cleaner.
      Headphones: Schiit Valhalla amp, Burson Conductor Virtuoso Amp, Meze Audio 99 Classic and 99 Neo, Beyerdynamic DT770Pro 600 ohm, DT770 Studio 80 ohm, 1More Triple Driver Over Ear, 1More Triple Driver IEM

      Comment


      • #6
        Excellent question about the brightness levels on components. Since I'm a low-light person by preference, I'm going to try some of the cures suggested in the comments. For example, my McIntosh gear has LED meters that are way too bright for evening use. Usually I just leave the meter lights turned off, which is too bad because they'd look fine if only they weren't so dazzling. The "LightDims" product looks like the right idea.
        Lyra Kleos SL, Dynavector XX-2MKII, VPI JMW 10.5i, VPI Aries, VPI SDS, ModWright PH-150 Reference Phono, Sony HAP-Z1ES server, McIntosh MR80, McIntosh C2300, McIntosh MC352, Vandersteen 5A, PS Audio P10, Bright Star Audio Rack of Gibraltar. Cables: Shunyata Cobra Ztron IC, PS Audio Statement AC, Synergistic Research AC, Harmonic Tech Silver Phono, Cable Research Labs Silver IC, Audioquest Gibraltar bi-wire.

        Comment


        • #7
          It's funny. That vintage McI piece I have- the MX 110 z--the choice is between dim and dimmer. (You can't even tell the radio dial is illuminated unless it is dark in the room). Other the other hand, I have this more modern McI solid state basic amp I use for the little home theatre system in the room-- man, you could do brain surgery using the light thrown off by those meters.(You can shut them off, of course).
          On my main system, I just have some small pilot lights- most of the glow is tubes, which I don't mind.

          Comment


          • #8
            there is always the brute force method of changing circuit components (usually resistors) to adjust brightness of the LEDs.
            Magnepan 1.6 QR Loudspeakers, Amherst A-2000 MOSFET 150 WPC Amp, Conrad Johnson PV-10A Modded Tube Line & Phono Stage, Electrocompaniet MC II Class A Head Amp, Audio Technica AT-OC9XML Cart (Stereo) , Graham Engineering 2.2 Tonearm (Stereo) , VPI Aries-1 Turntable (Stereo) , VPI Clamp, Denon DL-102 Cart, (Mono) , Luxman Tonearm (Mono) , Kenwood KD-500 Turntable (Mono) , Michell Clamp, Marantz 20B Analog FM Tuner, Pioneer SACD, Onkyo DX-6800 CD Transport, DIY 24B/192K DAC, Sennheiser HD-650 Headphones, Headroom Max Balanced Headphone Amp, DIY Silver Interconnects

            Comment


            • #9
              https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLVEQCO/?tag=hotoge-20



              it works
              Chris
              ----------------------------------------------------------------
              Kef 201/2, Pass xa30.5, W4S STP-SE, Manley Chinook, VPI Classic, Dynavector DV20x2L, ExaSound e32, Acoustic Zen cables. (Office): Vincent SP331 Mkll, Quicksilver Pre, Lumin D1, (Ken Lau Signiture Edition PSU), Bryston BCD-1, Vapor Audio Breeze, WooAudio W6se,Questyle Audio CMA800R LCD-3,HD800s, HD600, Mr Speaker Ether C Flow,

              Comment


              • #10
                Originally posted by jonathanb View Post
                It's nice when a manufacturer puts the led(s) on the underside of the chassis. It's one of the really nice touches on Merrill Audio's amps.
                That's a matter of taste obviously. It reminds me of people who place lighting under their cars.
                Micro Seiki SX-8000 table with flywheel, SME 3012R arm, SME 312S arm, Lyra Etna SL and Dynavector XV-1S cartridges, ARC Ref 3 phono stage, Otari MX-55 tape deck, Ampex 350 repros, Roon Nucleus Plus server, PS Audio DSJ DAC, ARC Ref 6 pre, ARC Ref 75 amp, JBL 4345 speakers, and Def Tech Ref subs.

                Comment


                • #11
                  Gave it a try. The "LightDims" product works very well to dim the overly bright blue LEDs on this McIntosh amp. The sheets are easy to apply/remove and unobtrusive once installed. Two thumbs up.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Lyra Kleos SL, Dynavector XX-2MKII, VPI JMW 10.5i, VPI Aries, VPI SDS, ModWright PH-150 Reference Phono, Sony HAP-Z1ES server, McIntosh MR80, McIntosh C2300, McIntosh MC352, Vandersteen 5A, PS Audio P10, Bright Star Audio Rack of Gibraltar. Cables: Shunyata Cobra Ztron IC, PS Audio Statement AC, Synergistic Research AC, Harmonic Tech Silver Phono, Cable Research Labs Silver IC, Audioquest Gibraltar bi-wire.

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    Why can't companies allow owners to turn the LEDs off? I think ARC offers that option. Years ago, my Altis DAC allowed me to dim the LED in steps all the way to off. Guess what? The DAC always sounded better when shut off.
                    Myles B. Astor, PhD, Administrator
                    Senior Editor, Positive-Feedback.com
                    ________________________________________

                    -Zellaton Plural Evo speakers
                    -Goldmund Telos 300 stereo amp
                    -Goldmund Mimesis 37S Nextgen preamplifier
                    -Doshi EVO and Goldmund PH3.8 phonostage
                    -VPI Vanquish direct-drive turntable
                    -VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy dual pivot tonearm, VPI 12-inch 3D Fat Boy gimballed and SAT LM-12 arm
                    -Lyra Atlas SL Lambda, Fuuga Mk. 2, vdh Colibri Master Signature, MutechHayabusa, MOFI Master Tracker, Sumiko Songbird cartridges
                    -Technics RS1506 with Flux Magnetic heads, Doshi V3.0 tape stage (balanced)
                    -Assorted cables including Transparent XL Gen. 6, Skogrand, Viero, Kubala-Sosna, Audience Au24SX, Genesis Advanced Technologies and Ensemble Power Cords
                    -Accessories including Stillpoint Aperture panels, Cathedral Sound panels, Furutech NCF Nano AC receptacles; Silver Circle Tchaik 6 PLC, Symposium ISIS and SRA Craz 3 racks, Audiodharma Cable Cooker, Symposium Ultra and assorted SRA OHIO Class 2.1+ platforms.

                    Comment


                    • JCOConnell
                      JCOConnell commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Sometimes LEDs are used as status indicators. If something is supposed to be "on" and its dimmed "off" then it would give a false reading.

                    • Goheelz
                      Goheelz commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Dimming LEDS would be the right solution, I think. My old MC352 amplifier had burned out incandescent bulbs. So I made the update to LED lighting via Audio Classics. This ought to last a long time, but it's too bright. McIntosh allows their LED lights to be switched off, leaving only partial lighting of lettering and controls, but there's no dimming feature. Installation of these little "dimming" sheets allows one to see a pleasant, muted blue LED light, but without the harshness. Maybe not the most elegant solution, but it works pretty well and suits my eyes.

                  • #13
                    Originally posted by MylesBAstor View Post
                    Guess what? The DAC always sounded better when shut off.

                    Chris
                    ----------------------------------------------------------------
                    Kef 201/2, Pass xa30.5, W4S STP-SE, Manley Chinook, VPI Classic, Dynavector DV20x2L, ExaSound e32, Acoustic Zen cables. (Office): Vincent SP331 Mkll, Quicksilver Pre, Lumin D1, (Ken Lau Signiture Edition PSU), Bryston BCD-1, Vapor Audio Breeze, WooAudio W6se,Questyle Audio CMA800R LCD-3,HD800s, HD600, Mr Speaker Ether C Flow,

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      Originally posted by Dave Clark View Post
                      So what easy solutions have you come across to lessen way too bright LEDs on components?
                      I find it interesting that someone else has issue bright lights too.

                      I have a personal issue because I listen in the dark, always have, darker the better.

                      LED lights do last very long, so I put new LED lights in the UHA Tape Deck VU metsrs, then I noticed they were pretty bright.
                      So I put a switch below the VU meters for lights on / off, problem solved and works great.

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        If the LEDs are pinhole type, try stuffing a little bit of cotton into the hole. Works wonders on my gear. The hole is either on the outside or inside. If the outside its easy. Ball up a tiny bit of cotton and insert it with a toothpick. You can push it around to get the image just right. If the dimple is on the inside, you can also take the face off the equipment, or the top and do the same with the cotton or put opaque tape over the hole. I have done it on 3 pieces of equipment. It works great.
                        PAP Trio 15 Horn speakers, Custom SET 845 monoblocks, Dartzeel NHB108, First Sound Audio Mark 3SI Paramount preamp, Mojo Audio Deja Vu server, Mojo Audio Mystique V3 DAC, STST Motus II TT, Vertere SG1 arm, Hanna ML, Allnic H1201 Phono pre, The Linear Solution Ethernet Switch, LPS to Modem Router and Switch, Blue Jeans Ethernet cabling throughout network, Akiko Corelli, Custom power strip direct wired to panel with OFC copper wire.10 awg dedicated branch circuits to amps bolted to power cords. Significant upgrades to 120 volt main power panel. Inakustik Ref Air 2404 Speaker cable. Genesis and Inakustik NF2404 Air Interconnects. ADDPower Symphony and Electraclear.

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