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Question for the Tube Gurus of Audionirvana

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  • Question for the Tube Gurus of Audionirvana

    I would appreciate anything anyone can tell me about my Williamson Stereo Master Control Amplifier Model G2525. Tube complement is one 6CA4 Rectifiier, five 12AX7's and four EL84 power tubes. It came out of a console.

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  • #2
    Top view.

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    • #3
      Rear view.

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      • #4
        Bottom uncovered.

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        • #5
          You're going to have far more luck on AudioKarma.

          I have never seen one. Looks like a regional piece. Close resemblance to a Scott 222 or 299 on the face of it - much more simple
          and economical circuitry though. Looks like the outputs share 1 cathode resistor- so matched tubes will need to be had. Good luck.
          Front end: Aesthetix Io Signature with 2 Power Supplies and Volume controls
          Brinkmann La Grange & RonT Tube Power supply with Kuzma 4-point , Brinkmann 12.1 , Koetsu Rosewood Signature Platinum, Lyra Atlas, Lyra Etna SL Goldfinger Statement, KLAUDIO RCM
          Amps: Wyetech Topaz, Futterman H3 Quad II,Citation II, Marantz 8b, 5 ,2 - Custom Direct Drive to supply Beveridge Electrostatics
          Pre-Amps: ARC SP 3a, Marantz 7, Marantz Model 1 Consolette Pair
          Speakers: Quad ESL 57, Beveridge Model 3, REL S/2 x 2

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          • Audioraven
            Audioraven commented
            Editing a comment
            I posted this amp on AudioKarma a while back, pretty much zero learned. The only conclusion reached there, was that the phono stage was tube based.

        • #6
          Looks pretty nice and clean; I know zip; how does it sound? Has work been done on it?

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          • #7
            Bill, it was working last time I plugged it in (it's been awhile). Picture does not due the faceplate justice, it's virtually flawless. It sounds quite good (no audible distortion), but you have to listen through some fairly substantial hum. I think it's 60HZ powerline noise not being filtered out. Transformers run super hot as well. It's configured as manufactured as far as I can tell.

            I was hoping someone might be able to chime in on the quality and type of the employed circuit designs. You out there AtmaSphere, etc?

            I think it has a lot of potential, but I don't have the funds to do anything with it currently.

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            • #8
              Odds are that the power supply electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced. Those are the two silver cylinders on the chassis - one with a black band and the other with the letters EE written on the top. Old electrolytic caps dry out and become leaky. That could explain why the transformer is running hot and there is a lot of hum.
              The capacitor specs are probably labeled on the side of the capacitor. You can buy replacements at a place that specializes in tube diy such as Antique Electronic Supply https://www.tubesandmore.com. Get a tech to replace them for you or buy yourself a soldering iron and do it yourself. You can do a lot more to restore it but changing those caps should get it running without hum.
              Good luck!
              ---Gary
              Analog: Scheu + Immedia RPM tonearm + Koetsu Black + Pass Xono or Threshold FET 10pe
              Amps: First Watt F7, HK Citation II
              Pre-Amps: CJ Premier 14, Threshold FET 10e, DIY 417a with output transformer
              Speakers: Horning Eufrodite, Reference 3A mm de capo
              Tuners: Sansui TU9900, McIntosh MR78
              Digital: i7 Server (Roon) + SSD, Sonore urendu + Mutec MC3+ USB + Berkeley Alpha Dac, TEAC VRDS-T1 (modfied with G+D clock and driver)
              Power: Audience AR12, Torus Tot, DIY filters

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              • #9
                Just like Gary says,
                Start with the power supply capacitors and resistors, I would de-ox all of the components and pots and then re pool all of the solder joints. I would bet that the heat and hum disappears, it also appears that all of the grounding is tied to the chassis at the nearest screw I would clean and re-tighten all of those connection , I would install an earth ground at the entrance to the chassis by the fuse location. It is such a simple circuit that with a little time you could make it better than new by checking the resistor values and make sure that they are in spec and changing all of those ceramic capacitors to .05% silver mica. Also the ones in the signal path I would change to film, and it appears that there are a few in the signal path. Almost all of the old consoles were an RCA circuit.

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                • #10
                  Thanks for the advice and knowledge Gary and Don. I learned quite a bit from your brief commentary. Unfortunately my technical/soldering skills are nonexistent, and I don't have the funds to pay someone else for their services currently.

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